Food and restaurants, what and where to eat in Hangzhou

Hangzhou, long regarded as "Paradise on Earth", boasts a culinary culture as deep and enduring as the waters of West Lake. In ancient Liangzhu, there was already mention of "rice for meals, fish for dishes", reflecting the richness of its food. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, poets Bai Juyi and Yuan Zhen enjoyed boat feasts on West Lake, relishing the famous dishes of the time, which were passed down through generations. By the Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo famously remarked, "There has never been a banquet more splendid than those in Hangzhou". The "Dongpo Pork" created by Su Dongpo has also become a culinary legend, enduring for centuries. Following are the best food and restaurant in Hangzhou.

What to eat

Top 1: West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy/西湖醋鱼

West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy, one of the signature dishes of Hangzhou cuisine, is most famously served at the Lou Wai Lou restaurant. It is one of the most commonly ordered dishes by tourists in Hangzhou, but due to the meticulous preparation required, the taste of the vinegar fish varies greatly between restaurants, and customer reviews have been somewhat controversial.

Made with grass carp, this dish boasts a vibrant red color, tender fish meat, and a refreshing sweet and sour flavor. The texture is soft and delicate, with a subtle hint of crab flavor, and the sauce is thick and savory. The vinegar sauce, gleaming like amber, evenly coats the fish, emitting an irresistible shine. The fish, soaked in the vinegar sauce, becomes even more tender and flavorful. Each mouthful delivers the freshness of the fish and the richness of the vinegar sauce, with the sweet and sour taste intertwining on the palate, leaving one enchanted by the experience.

Top 2: Dongpo Pork/东坡肉

Dongpo Pork is a famous dish in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang cuisine, improved by the great Northern Song Dynasty litterateur Su Dongpo according to legend. The dish features melt-in-your-mouth pork that is rich but not greasy, with a bright red color, a renowned delicacy not only in Zhejiang but also throughout China. It is made with pork cut into two-inch cubes, alternating layers of fat and lean meat, which are then slowly braised with soy sauce, rock sugar, Shaoxing wine, and other seasonings.

Legend has it that when Su Dongpo was exiled to Huangzhou, he was living in hardship. He improved upon an old recipe by making a sauce with yellow wine, rock sugar, and soy sauce, creating a dish of braised pork with a rich, reddish color and aromatic flavor. Later, when Su Dongpo became the magistrate of Hangzhou, he initiated the dredging of West Lake. After the project was completed, he treated the workers to this dish as a reward. The people praised his contributions, and the dish became known as "Dongpo Pork".

Top 3: Longjing Prawns/龙井虾仁

Longjing Prawns, or Sauteed Shrimp Meat with Longjing Tea, as the name suggests, is a dish made with tender shrimp cooked with the young leaves of Longjing tea, a specialty of Hangzhou. The shrimp is pearl-white and tender, while the tea leaves are green and fragrant. The dish is visually elegant with a unique flavor, leaving the palate refreshed and appetites stimulated.

It is said that during a travel incognito, Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty entered a restaurant, and the shopkeeper, noticing the emperor's dragon robe peeking out from under his disguise, panicked and mistakenly sprinkled Longjing tea leaves onto the sauteed shrimp as chopped scallions. Unexpectedly, the dish turned out to be elegant in color with a unique flavor, and Emperor Qianlong, after tasting it, nodded and praised the dish.

Top 4: Pian’er Chuan/片儿川

Pian'er Chuan is a signature dish of Hangzhou, and a famous specialty of the Kuiyuan Restaurant. It is widely popular and has long been one of the most beloved Hangzhou-style noodle dishes served in local restaurants and noodle shops. The name "Pian'er Chuan" comes from the fact that most of the ingredients are in slices (Pian), and the dish is prepared by blanching (Chuan) the ingredients in hot soup, with Hangzhou pronunciation often carrying the "er" sound, so the dish is affectionately called "Pian'er Chuan". Making Pian'er Chuan is simple, but its flavor is rich and layered. The savory broth is enhanced by the snow vegetables, bamboo shoots, and lean meat, and these three ingredients have varying shades of color and differences in texture, perfectly blended and balanced.

Top 5: Scallion Wrapped with Hui’er/葱包桧儿

Scallion Wrapped with Hui’er is a savory snack in Hangzhou, made by wrapping Youtiao and green onions in a thin pancake, then pressing and grilling it on an iron skillet until golden and crispy.

The "Hui" refers to Deep-fried Hui’er, that is Youtiao. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the treacherous official Qin Hui, driven by personal gain, had the national hero Yue Fei murdered in Hangzhou, which deeply saddened and angered the people. A pastry chef in Hangzhou, to express his anger and hate, kneaded dough into two small figures representing Qin Hui and his wife, twisted them together, and deep-fried them in oil, that is “Deep-fried Hui'er”.

Still not satisfied, the chef took the Youtiao, roasted them in a hot pan, and then wrapped them with green onions and sweet flour sauce in a thin pancake. He pressed it with an iron plate, grilling it until the Youtiao sizzled with a sizzling noise. After finally venting his anger, he tasted it and found it delicious, so he named it Scallion Wrapped with Hui’er and the dish has been passed down ever since.

Top 6: Cat’s Ears/猫耳朵

According to legend, when Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty once visited Jiangnan incognito, during a trip to West Lake, he was caught in the rain and took shelter in a small boat. Feeling hungry, the granddaughter of an old fisherman made small doughs shaped like cat's ears from flour and served them to the emperor with a fish and shrimp broth. After tasting the dish, Qianlong found it delicious and asked its name. The girl replied, "Cat's Ears". From then on, this snack became famous and is now one of Hangzhou’s signature dishes. The dish is charmingly small and delicate, resembling the shape of a cat's ears, which makes it instantly endearing. The texture is chewy and elastic, and the broth is fresh and flavorful.

Where to eat

Top 1: Lou Wai Lou/楼外楼

Lou Wai Lou is one of Hangzhou's time-honored Chinese brands. It was founded by a scholar from Shaoxing during the Qing Dynasty, named Hong Ruitang. After relocating to Hangzhou, he settled at the foot of Gushan Mountain. Hong was skilled in preparing fresh river fish and shrimp, and after gaining some reputation, he opened a restaurant near the Liuyi Spring on Gushan. It became a local custom in Hangzhou that whenever there were guests, they would be taken to Lou Wai Lou to enjoy the flavors of Hangzhou cuisine.

• Recommended: West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy, Dongpo Pork, Beggar's Spring Chicken, Songsao Fish Soup
• Operating Hours: 10:30 AM – 02:30 PM & 04:30 AM – 08:00 PM
• Address: No. 30, Gushan Road, Beishan Street, West Lake Scenic Area, Hangzhou
• Telephone: 0571-87969023

Top 2: Kuiyuan Restaurant/奎元馆

It is said that "if you haven't eaten noodles at Kuiyuan Restaurant, you haven't truly visited Hangzhou". Kuiyuan Restaurant was founded in 1867, a place that exam candidates of the ancient times would visit. Over its more than 140-year history, Kuiyuan Restaurant has moved locations and changed ownership multiple times, but its noodle business has only grown in scale and distinctiveness with the passage of time, earning a reputation both domestically and internationally, and gaining the title of "King of Noodles in Jiangnan".

• Recommended: Pian’er Chuan, Fried Shrimp and Eel with Noodles
• Operating Hours: 07:00 PM – 09:00 PM
• Address: No. 154 Jiefang Road, Shangcheng District, Hangzhou
• Telephone: 0571-87029012

Top 3: Zhiweiguan Restaurant/知味观

Zhiweiguan is a Chinese time-honored brand in Hangzhou, originally established in 1913 by Sun Yizhai. Its famous slogan "Stop the cart to savor the flavor, dismount from the horse to smell the fragrance" has been passed down through the years, and the restaurant has a history of over a century. The restaurant offers a wide variety of delicious dishes, where visitors can order snacks to enjoy on the spot or purchase various Hangzhou specialties.

• Recommended: Fresh Meat Xiaolongbao, Cat’s Ears, Happiness in Pairs
• Operating Hours: 07:30 AM – 09:00 PM
• Address: No. 83 Renhe Road, Shangcheng District, Hangzhou
• Telephone: 0571-87017778

Top 4: Green Tea/绿茶

Green Tea Restaurant started in 2008 by the West Lake in Hangzhou, and after more than a decade of development, it has now established its presence in Hangzhou. Though the menu is not extensive, each dish is carefully prepared and of superior taste. The calming green sign perfectly matches the restaurant's name, and the interior features warm stoves, soothing jazz background music, and chalkboard menus reminiscent of school days. Even before eating, patrons are already captivated by the atmosphere.

• Recommended: Roast Chicken with Green Tea, Green Tea Cake, Shrimp with Vermicelli, Fish Head Temptation
• Operating Hours: 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM
• Address: No. 83 Longjing Road, Xihu District, Hangzhou
• Telephone: 0571-87888022

Top 5: Hefang Street/河坊街

Hefang Street is located at the foot of Wushan Mountain, and it is an ancient street with a long history and profound cultural heritage. It once served as the "root of imperial city" of ancient Hangzhou, and was also the cultural and economic center during the Southern Song Dynasty. The renovated Hefang Street showcases the architecture of the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican period, and it is one of the streets that best reflects Hangzhou's historical and cultural character. The street is home to Hangzhou's most famous food street, with over a hundred old brands and shops offering a variety of local specialties.

• Recommended: Scallion Wrapped with Hui’er, Dingshang Cake, Wushan Oil Cake, Stinky tofu, Hangzhou Xiaolongbao
• Operating Hours: 00:00 AM – 12:00 PM
• Address: No. 180, Hefang Street, Shangcheng District, Hangzhou

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